Text Meeran Mekkaoui

The Milan Fashion Week men’s calendar might have been on the quiet side for FW25, with heavy hitters like Fendi and Gucci sitting this one out to focus on co-ed shows next month. But Prada, as always, came through with a statement, bringing romance, raw emotion, and an exploration of instinctual dressing to the forefront. So much so, that the house delivered one of the most talked-about moments of the season.

Location: Romance in the maze

It’s been a minute since Prada played with the multi-level showspace at the Fondazione. For FW25, the house went back to this concept of theatrical layers, building an industrial maze of scaffolded platforms.

The setting amplified the collection’s instinctual vibe. AMO transformed Fondazione Prada’s Deposito into an interplay of contradictions: a stark industrial metal structure contrasted with soft, tactile carpets designed by Catherine Martin. The space fragmented into layered levels, recalling the intimacy of a nightclub while echoing the grandeur of a film set. Lighting shifted like fleeting emotions, bathing the monumental hall in moments of raw intimacy.

Guests fanned out across three stories, perched above thick floral carpets that oozed a touch of kitsch—like a nostalgic throwback to a late-80s nan’s hallway, but Prada-fied to perfection.

Collection: The rules? There are none

This season, Prada embraces unfiltered creativity, stripping away to reveal a collection that celebrates instinct as a driving force for elegance, romance, and vulnerability. But this isn’t romance in its fluffiest form — it’s raw, pulsating with intensity and grounded in passion and movement. Protective sensuality threads through the designs, with tactile shearling cocooning the wearer and knitwear adorned with metallic symbols reminiscent of amulets — both armour and intimacy intertwined.

The FW25 menswear collection is almost like a love letter to personal style, much like last season’s eclectic women’s collection. But the real magic, lies in the personal touches – thrifted finds, sentimental pieces, and offbeat accessories that tell your story. Luxe satin pajama trousers clashed effortlessly with faded checked robes, chunky nylon parkas layered over fine-gauge knits, and cowboy-meets-winklepicker boots added a rebellious edge to tailored trousers. The muted palette of browns, grays, and navy was punctuated by electric red, deep purple, and gaudy floral prints reminiscent of faded ’70s interiors.

Spotted: Saint Levant sits front row

Following his performance at this year’s MOTB Festival in Dubai, Saint Levant –Dazed Mena Issue 00 cover star – flew in to Milan to show up for the Prada show. Joining him on the front row was Egyptian-Italian artist Mahmood, and fellow Prada boys Damson Idris and Troye Sivan.

Fuax fur makes a statement

Fur, or rather faux fur, is back in a big way this season. Prada, having sworn off real fur in 2020, wove its ethical counterpart into the collection with playful abandon. Swathes of faux fur appeared across lapels, sweater-vest panels, and as soft linings for the oversized parkas, spanning textures from cowhide to giraffe print. It felt primal yet luxurious, echoing the overarching theme of raw humanity.

The final instinct

With FW25, Prada reminded us that fashion’s most powerful moments happen when we act on gut feelings. Miuccia and Raf’s exploration of instinct, emotion, and personal style felt especially relevant in a time when individuality is reclaiming its place over trend-driven dressing. In Prada’s world, breaking the rules isn’t rebellion — it’s just human nature.