Zahra Asmail: The Iraqi designer’s unstoppable rise

Zahra Asmail is an ever-churning powerhouse of costume design genius with all the references to show for it. An Iraqi creative based in London, the clothing architect is behind cultural statements from Wesley Joseph’s ‘Monsoon’ video, Jorja Smith’s music (on more than one occasion), and Skepta’s main shows. Her work draws from her Iraqi heritage, often saturated with personal elements—vestiges of her familial nostalgia—that give each look an unrepeatable feel. Zahra frequently fuses the masculine with the feminine, creating wardrobes that evade the restrictions of performative expression and convention.

Born in Baghdad during the Gulf War and now based in London, Zahra’s work is irrevocably rooted in Iraq. “My heritage and history, from the Babylonian era to today, profoundly inspire me,” she tells Dazed MENA. “I’m captivated by how people navigated both the highs and lows throughout time, exploring the everyday lives of those finding joy alongside those facing hardship. I seek beauty in the mundane, uncovering remarkable stories within ordinary moments.”

Zahra’s connection to her family lies at the heart of her work. The designer often reflects on memories of her family patriarchs, whose sartorial elegance has left an indelible mark on her that still percolates in her work today. The fitted suits of her grandfather and the timeless style of her father inform her design process, where she is impervious to the confines of gendered cut and style. The designer’s heartwarming appreciation for her family permeates everything she does. “My upbringing has instilled in me resilience, kindness, determination, open-mindedness, and empathy,” Zahra explains to Dazed MENA. “My parents emphasised that with hard work, anything is possible, and their belief in limitless potential fuels my passion and drives me forward every day.”

For Zahra, fashion extends beyond a mere aesthetic statement, morphing into a platform for conversation and, ultimately, understanding. “I want to inspire people to embrace their authentic selves and continually push boundaries,” she affirms. “As a creative, I believe in the power of experimentation with different mediums to discover what resonates most. It’s important not to confine yourself to a specific title—freedom lies in exploration and evolution.”

Zahra’s creative process is primarily fuelled by her engagement with people. “Whether about upbringing, culture, geopolitical views, or everyday social constructs, these discussions spark vivid images and designs in my mind,” the artist shares, suggesting that fashion is a vehicle for cultural commentary. “Engaging with fellow creatives and academics inspires me to push my boundaries, whether that means learning about unfamiliar topics or examining perspectives from different viewpoints.”

As a member of the diaspora, Zahra’s work focuses heavily on the especially relevant theme of exile, a subject the artist feels strongly about. “I want to bring the theme of displacement to the front, despite the industry’s tendency to reject it,” she proclaims. “I aim to spark conversations around freedom and highlight the positive aspects of contrasting cultures, challenging the often negative narratives that surround these differences.”

In this time of particular grief and tumult in the region, Zahra has a refreshingly positive take, suggesting that this uncertainty will propel artists onto the global stage and foster understanding through exposure. “I can only speak for the diaspora, but I believe the current geopolitical climate will significantly influence creatives in our region,” she says, before explaining the cultural and artistic impact of Arab political movements in bringing forth others worldwide. “[The Arab Spring] fostered a politically engaged art scene and boosted global interest in artists from the SWANA region.” 

Zahra is currently working on her next collection, which promises to expand her vision on a larger scale. “There’s much more to come, but I believe everything will unfold in its own time,” she reveals. “Each project is a step toward reshaping the conversation around culture and identity and I’m excited for what lies ahead.”