Fashion history 101: The many faces of the Fred Perry polo

The Fred Perry polo is a longstanding wardrobe essential and iconic on its own. However, for those of us who grew up outside the United Kingdom, we may be unaware of its historical and social relevance.

The piece of clothing holds a special place as a versatile, unisex item that can be worn almost anywhere, from padel Sundays to potluck nights. But in Britain, the same shirt has done all of that while also speaking volumes, having spent decades entrenched in various subcultures.

Beyond the Baseline

The polo itself began, predictably, with sport. Fred Perry designed his version in the early 1950s, adapting what his contemporary tennis players already wore, but refining it further. The cotton piqué fabric allowed breathability over heavier fabrics, the structured collar kept things presentable, and the tighter fit was flattering without restricting movement. 

It launched in 1952, finished with the laurel wreath, a symbol tied to Perry’s Wimbledon victories and ancient ideas of honour and achievement. At the time, it wasn’t trying to be the statement it would find itself becoming over time. 

By the late 1950s and early 60s, the polo had wandered off the court and into British youth culture. Mods adopted it first, buttoned to the top and paired with slim trousers to pose on their Italian-made scooters. This gave it a modern, hip identity for the time, given how the movement was founded by the younger population. 

As the decades moved on, the polo kept crossing lines, making its way between various youth movements.

As time passed, these British subcultures fractured and recombined, but the Fred Perry polo consistently remained relevant. In the 1980s, the football casual movement gave it another layer of meaning. Alongside knitwear and trainers, the shirt became part of a visual code that focused heavily on designer sportswear and became associated with the impassioned applause of terrace culture. 

Cementing its place in various corners of British fashion history, the Fred Perry polo has remarkably survived to the current era, mostly unchanged and spotted around the world. The core elements remain intact, with twin tipping, familiar palettes, and a sharp silhouette that has stayed timeless. Whether it’s in Cairo, Amman, or Dubai, as soon as you spot the piece, it’s immediately recognisable.

Shop the Fred Perry polo and more on fredperry.com