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Fashion, Fashion
Lebanese Fashion History: the archive account reminding us that fashion history matters
Text Zein Karam
Interest in fashion history content has been growing in recent years, especially on TikTok and Instagram, where it’s easiest to consume—anything from Vivienne Westwood’s origin story to John Galliano’s meteoric rise and fall. An appreciation for fashion no longer starts and ends with the garment but rather stems from its original reference and the story of how it came to be. But when all is said and done with the luxury fashion of the West, what about our own history in the region?
I distinctly remember stumbling upon Joe Challita’s instagram @LebaneseFashionHistory, a post about Georgina Rizk, the first Lebanese and Middle Eastern Miss Universe in 1971 popped up on my explore page. Heart-shaped bubbles started flying out of my chest when I read the account name, and to this day, I have never followed anyone so quickly. Since then, my knowledge of Western designers has felt almost insignificant in comparison to the wealth of knowledge I realised I lacked about my fashion history. I was learning about supermodels and couture dresses worn by Sabah, which are still referenced today. Bridal wear and folkloric garments, which I had never seen highlighted in such a way, suddenly made me feel like I was planning a wedding as a single 23-year-old. The excitement carries on to this day, where taking pride in our history and heritage is more important than ever.
A post shared by Joe Challita جو شليطا (@lebanesefashionhistory)
Joe Challita is not just the founder of @lebanesfashionhistory, he is also a couturier who designed last years Miss Lebanon’s cultural costume for the Miss Universe pagent. It was designed with ultimate care and consideration for historical accuracy and beauty.
We spoke with Joe why he does what he does and the importance of prioritising the preservation of our fashion history.
Why do you think an interest in fashion history is becoming so popular online today?
There has always been a fascination with fashion history across generations, but in the Lebanese context, the interest is particularly unique. Lebanon has long been a bridge between East and West, adopting Western trends and lifestyles early on—not just during the French Mandate in the 1920s but even earlier, especially among the Lebanese bourgeoisie who traveled to Europe and brought back emerging styles.
Historically, Beirut has been a cosmopolitan hub, both geographically and culturally. However, this openness to Western influences came at a cost – over time, Lebanon gradually lost touch with its own sartorial heritage. This disconnect was further exacerbated by the Lebanese Civil War (1975–1990). As Lebanon rebuilt itself, the focus shifted towards modernisation, and with that, many traditional elements—including folkloric dress—were nearly forgotten. The lack of museums, archives, and cultural initiatives meant that an entire generation grew up without exposure to the rich fashion heritage of their ancestors. This is precisely why I created Lebanese Fashion History—to fill the void, to research and uncover forgotten narratives, and to give people a window into their past. What I discovered was an overwhelming thirst among the new generation to reconnect with their roots. Through my platform, they are not just learning about fashion; they are rediscovering their identity, piecing together fragments of a history that was nearly erased. This resurgence of interest is not just about nostalgia—it’s about reclaiming a cultural legacy that deserves to be remembered and celebrated.
A post shared by Joe Challita جو شليطا (@lebanesefashionhistory)
As Arabs and as Lebanese people, we often turn to nostalgia as a comfort or crutch, why do you think it’s important to be reminded of our cultural history?
In the Arab world, embracing and reflecting on fashion history is essential, especially because, in some parts of the Middle East, history is still unfolding. Political and sociological shifts, occupations, and conflicts continue to shape our region, making it even more crucial to hold onto traditions and folklore as a way of preserving identity. Fashion is not just about aesthetics—it is a cultural marker, a reminder of who we are and where we come from.
However, the answer lies in our roots. By looking inward—at our heritage, traditions, and craftsmanship—we rediscover a sense of belonging. Through deeper research and reflection, we come to realise Lebanon’s significant role in global fashion history. Since the 1960s and even earlier, Lebanese designers have gained international recognition, and Lebanese models have walked for the world’s most prestigious luxury brands. This legacy proves that Lebanon has always been a fashion powerhouse, and by reconnecting with our past, we reclaim a cultural pride that has been there all along.
A post shared by Joe Challita جو شليطا (@lebanesefashionhistory)
How much of Lebanon’s glamorous history has influenced the world and fashion today?
Lebanon’s fashion scene has long influenced the world, particularly in the realm of couture and red-carpet fashion. Since its golden era in the 1960s—when Beirut was famously dubbed the “Paris of the Middle East”—Lebanese designers have captivated international audiences with their craftsmanship and elegance.
This legacy continues today, as high society and celebrities alike remain in awe of Lebanese design. Our couturiers have redefined the art of dressing for the red carpet, consistently setting new standards of glamour and sophistication. In fact, the majority of A-list celebrities now turn to Lebanese designers for their most high-profile appearances, from the Oscars to the Met Gala. Beirut still holds its reputation as the birthplace of style and fashion in the Middle East, proving that Lebanese creativity and couture remain at the forefront of global fashion.
A post shared by Joe Challita جو شليطا (@lebanesefashionhistory)
Do you see any of these trends coming back into our current fashion cycle? And what would you like to see come back in style?
Trends always resurface—right now, we’re seeing a revival of the styles we wore in the ’90s, just as flares from the ’70s made a comeback during that decade. Fashion is inherently cyclical, constantly reinventing itself.
That being said, I don’t personally believe in following trends. What truly matters is personal style. Growing up in Sydney, I loved visiting vintage stores, finding pieces from the ’50s and ’70s, and mixing them to create something uniquely my own. There’s something liberating about dressing for yourself rather than for trends—fashion becomes a window into self-expression, a way to explore and define who you are.
I don’t necessarily wish for any specific trend to make a comeback because I believe we already have the freedom to wear and design whatever we choose. I don’t wait for something to become a trend to embrace it.
A post shared by Joe Challita جو شليطا (@lebanesefashionhistory)
Have you seen the memes around Chappell Roan’s Grammy’s look, but people are saying it looks like the traditional Lebanese Tantour – what are your thoughts?
Yes, it’s amusing to see the resemblance to what many assume is a Lebanese tantour, but the reality is quite different. A true Lebanese tantour looks nothing like that, and this misconception stems from a lack of awareness, preservation, and promotion of our own folklore and fashion.
A tantour is a regal, conical or cylindrical headdress, crafted from silver or gold, that sits elegantly atop the head. This very lack of knowledge is why I founded the Lebanese Fashion History platform—to educate, preserve, and fill the gaps where our country has fallen short in safeguarding its heritage.
Designing the traditional Lebanese princess costume for Miss Lebanon at this year’s Miss Universe was a defining moment. It allowed me to present the tantour in its authentic form. Some Lebanese had never seen a real tantour before and even questioned whether the headdress was truly a tantour! So, I’m not surprised when people mistake a Disney-esque witch hat for one.