Posted in
Fashion, Designer
Uplifting Lebanese designers: how fashion thrives despite crisis
Text Farah Ibrahim
In the Arab world, the Lebanese are stereotyped as being the arbiters of style. Perhaps, there is some truth to this; after all, Lebanon dominated the 2024 Forbes Middle East Fashion Innovator’s List, with 22 of the total nominees being Lebanese. For comparison, Egyptian designers, who came in second, had just six.
Renowned for intricate craftsmanship and a bold spirit, Lebanon’s fashion scene has consistently captivated the world, producing well-loved fashion houses like Elie Saab, Reem Acra, and Sandra Mansour.
However, Lebanon’s ongoing crisis—marked by economic strain, political instability, and war—has placed unprecedented pressure on its creative industries. “You sometimes feel too guilty to complain,” says Eric Mathieu Ritter, creative director of Beirut-based fashion collective Emergency Room. “When people are literally dying and losing their homes just kilometers away, you don’t have the nerve to talk about how the creative industries are being impacted.”
Financial hardship and volatility have forced many skilled designers, tailors, and artisans to leave Lebanon in search of stable opportunities. As this talent drain continues, Lebanon risks losing the unique cultural identity these artists shape and sustain. Additionally, the economic impact of the crisis has left Lebanese fashion brands scrambling to get hold of basic resources.
Relentless inflation and skyrocketing costs drive the price of essential materials beyond reach, making it difficult for artisans to create quality pieces at accessible prices. Supply chain disruptions also severely hinder both local production and exports, isolating Lebanese brands from international markets and shrinking their customer base.
Despite these hardships, Lebanon’s designers continue to fight to maintain their businesses, all while preserving Lebanon’s cultural heritage. Their fortitude is what keeps alive the vibrant ecosystem connecting art, economy, and the indomitable spirit of creativity that runs deep in Lebanon.
“The biggest challenge facing creatives in Lebanon is sales,” says designer Salim Azzam, who employs women skilled in traditional embroidery techniques in his mountainous hometown of Chouf. “We’ve faced years of economic crisis and obstacles, but as Lebanese designers, we show resilience in our creativity. We are always able to continue creating.”
Alongside these economic hurdles, Lebanon’s designers face geopolitical challenges. On September 23th and 24th 2024, over 250 Israeli warplanes dropped approximately 2,000 missiles on Lebanon, followed by an announcement of a ground invasion on October 1st. Ritter explained that his colleagues struggle just to get their workers to studios, as some have been forcibly displaced.
For designers like Azzam, preserving Lebanon’s artisanal culture is also a priority. By employing local women in his hometown, he hopes to uphold traditional embroidery techniques while supporting artisans in his community. “People need to make themselves aware of smaller brands and give people a chance,” Azzam says. “There are a lot of Lebanese immigrants abroad who want to buy from Lebanon, and as Christmas comes up, I hope people will be shopping more consciously.”
By purchasing from small Lebanese brands, consumers support both the designer and the artisans who carry forward Lebanon’s cultural legacy. This community focus resonates with both Azzam’s and Ritter’s brands, where social enterprise functions as a core value alongside fashion. “This is the only way I can give back to my community,” Azzam shares. “The biggest challenge for me is to keep people’s jobs and to keep providing for these families during such difficult times. That is one of the reasons the brand exists in the first place: to give these people the financial means to sustain their lives using their talents.”
Both Ritter and Azzam believe that awareness is essential for survival. “We know what we need to know on our end as designers to keep our business afloat, but there’s no way to do that if people don’t know what is happening in Lebanon,” Azzam explains. “As Lebanese people, we are blessed that we know how to reset and start again, but we are quite tired at this point. Keep spreading awareness about Lebanon.”
Empowering Lebanese Designers Through Crisis
There are several ways people can support Lebanese fashion creatives. First, shopping from Lebanese brands directly provides vital financial support to designers and artisans. Icons like Elie Saab and Zuhair Murad are globally recognised, while emerging talents such as Sarah’s Bag and Andrea Wazen offer fresher perspectives. Choosing to buy from these brands helps artisans sustain their livelihoods, enabling them to continue creating despite challenging conditions.
Retailers can also help by forming partnerships with Lebanese designers. “We need support in getting connected with points of sale abroad. We’re geographically isolated from the rest of the fashion industry and have to rely heavily on peer-to-peer transactions. Getting connected with retailers and wholesalers would help a lot.” Ritter added. “People should understand that when you buy a local product, it is about driving the entire economy forward, not just supporting that one designer to make a living.”
Creating capsule collections or other collaborations can also open new markets for Lebanese designers. These collaborations benefit both parties and give Lebanese designers greater reach and recognition beyond their borders.
Several NGOs and support programs work tirelessly to sustain Lebanon’s creative sector. Organisations like FabricAID provide affordable textile options and resources for Lebanese artisans by collecting and redistributing unused materials through an upcycling process. Donating to these initiatives enables supporters to contribute directly to the resilience of Lebanon’s creative industries.
The Lebanese diaspora also plays a significant role in uplifting local talent. By purchasing, promoting, and collaborating with Lebanese brands, the diaspora fosters connections between Lebanon’s creatives and the global market. Initiatives like the Fashion Trust Arabia (FTA) Awards help spotlight Lebanese talent and keep Lebanon’s fashion scene connected to international conversations and opportunities.
By choosing Lebanese designers, sharing their stories, and supporting their visibility, global supporters play an essential role in preserving Lebanon’s extraordinary fashion culture. Lebanese designers continue to maintain tradition, resilience, and artistry in every piece they create, embodying a nation that, despite all odds, inspires the world with its courage and love of beauty.